1990s windows

The 1990s windows I see on a job are either uPVC or, on many new-build estates, softwood frames stained to look like hardwood. The softwood ones are the ones that disappoint. In my view, many were chosen for how the house looked from the road, not for how long they would last.

The houses behind 1990s windows

In house-building terms, the early part of the decade followed on from the eighties. For the first few years not much changed. As I remember it, people with negative equity saw light at the end of the tunnel. Interest rates fell, prices rose and the economy recovered. By the middle of the decade stylish new estates seemed to be springing up on every bare patch, and the houses on them were getting bigger and more prestigious-looking.

Developers and estate agents call the attractiveness of a house from outside kerb appeal, and first impressions count. A little fancy brickwork doesn’t cost much more than plain, and it helps no end.

Softwood stained to look like hardwood

The trouble is what else was done for kerb appeal. Cheap softwood windows were very often stained to give the impression of expensive hardwood. In my experience the proud new owner finds them a major disappointment within a handful of years.

I have seen how quickly it can go. My brother lived in a very well-built house of this period, with uPVC windows. Even there, the wood on the dormers began to deteriorate in under three years. I have photographed a wooden window rotting in a 1990s house on the same estate. It was visibly worse each time I went past.

What to check on 1990s windows

If your house has softwood windows from this period, look at the bottom of the frames and the sills first. That is where water collects. Press gently on any paint that has blistered. If the wood is soft, the frame is failing and the glass in it is at risk too. Failing frames let water into the glazing rebate, and that is how sealed units in wooden frames fail. If the glass has already misted, the guide to sealed units in wooden frames explains why.

If the frame is sound and only the glass has gone, replacing the unit is the cheaper route. If the frame is rotten, replace the window.

What to ask before you order

When you ask for quotes, ask the installer to describe in writing:

• the frame material and finish;
• the glass, and the energy rating of the whole window;
• how the work will be certified, since the Planning Portal says building regulations apply to all replacement glazing;
• the guarantee, and who stands behind it.

For one window, the price guide for a single replacement window shows the typical cost, and the guide to sealed unit replacement covers the glass alone. Put any quote through our quote checker. For other periods, see the your windows hub.